One of the best international travel decisions I’ve made
was leaving the states early evening due to time change. Our 9-hour journey to
London left out of Denver at 8pm mid-July. And after a mid-morning meal and 3
hour layover, we flew up to Glasgow, Scotland.
This is my third trip to Scotland but first time to Glasgow.
I was shocked to learn how large it was, with over 1 million people in
population. The downtown area is beautiful with so many old buildings and
gorgeous architecture. I found it
strange to see so many spaces “to let”. I’ve heard numerous times that Glasgow
has a bad rap and is the step-child to Edinburgh but I have to say I was
pleasantly surprised with the city centre and what little we saw.
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We stopped along the way at a tea shop called Tarbet Tea
Room. It was a small space with only one table occupied and a beautiful young
lady called Katy came over to take our order. In her sweet Scottish accent she
said, “we’ve only tea, coffee and pastries- that okay?”. She was 10 years old and she and her brother
were helping her grandmother out in the shop. There was a table with three
ladies and a hilarious Scotsman sitting next to us. The women took turns
slagging on the man and he never skipped a beat with his comebacks. It was
hilarious and took about 4 ½ minutes for us to strike up a conversation.
Ansley & Margie are from Ireland, Olga from Italy and
Bill from…. Scotland. We had a great chat with them and although I turned down
Bill’s offer to go with him ;), we all had some great laughs and sweet Margie
gave me a prayer card when they left. I simply adore Irish people! We tipped
young Katy a large tip and told her she needed to come to Texas one day, then
stepped out as we heard her excited voice sharing the news with her brother.
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We first met the bartender, a gent named Jordan from
Australia. As we chatted with him about travels thru Scotland and Ireland, a
few guys at the end of the bar started talking to us. Mike and Mike were from West
Virginia visiting for a few weeks- first Scotland and The Open followed by
Ireland, specifically, my favorite village in Eire, Kinsale! This led to a 45-minute
lecture (given by yours truly) on all of the spots and people they needed to
visit whilst in Kinsale. “And you must say hi to Michael Frawley at “The White
House” at the end of Main Street”, and “don’t forget to give Anthony at “The
White Lady” a hug from us”, etc, etc, etc.
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The food was amazing… especially if you like the freshest
seafood ever. I am more a of a steak and potatoes kind of girl so I had a quick
meal but focused on the best desert I’ve ever had- Honeycomb ice cream. Creamy
ice cream with honey and chunks of honeycomb, I’m salivating just typing about
it.
After this delicious meal, although we were too full, we
decided to go back to The George pub for one more pint. When we walked in about
half past 9pm, the Mikes were still there, although they were exhausted from
their trip over so were about to head up to sleep. So we bought them another
round. And then another. THEN one of the Mikes made the fatal mistake of
telling me it was his birthday at midnight… so we made him stay in Pub in The
George Hotel and “celebrate” with us until the clock struck birthday. It was
too funny.
Naturally, the head was a bit rusty the following morning
and naturally we had a 6-hour drive to The Isle of Skye. Fortunately it was one
of the most breathtaking and gorgeous drives I’ve been on so that helped curb
the ache in the head.
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We were so enamored by the scenery and the overwhelming
ambiance of the Highlands that hunger snuck up on us quickly. The only problem
was, we were out in the middle of nowhere, and just when I started to get
borderline cranky hungry, like an oasis, we drove around a curve and there was
a lone restaurant in the middle of the peaks and valleys of Glenmoriston. So we
stopped into Cuinie Restaurant for a pint and fish and chips. IT WAS SO GOOD
and sitting next to us was an adorable, talkative little boy from Miami named
Mark. We chatted with him for a bit and then continued on to the Isle of Skye.
The constantly changing topography and weather made for an
interesting journey and there was plenty to see.
To get to the Isle of Skye, we drove over the bridge at Kyle
Lochen. It was gorgeous scenery and somewhat enchanting to think we were
finally heading over the sea to Skye. Unfortunately we were in a big hurry to
catch the ferry from Skye to Rasaay where our evening’s stay was (place
apparently gets REALLY booked up and is not supportive of our spontaneity ;) so
we didn’t get to do much sight seeing at this point. But I can tell you, Skye
is a wonderful place.
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After our meal we drove into town to get some pounds to pay
for the room and stopped at the bridge to walk to the center. There were some
locks on the bridge and it reminded me of the bridge in Paris we put locks on earlier
this year.
The next morning we drove up to Glenbrittle at the foot of
the Black Cuillin Mountains to the Fairy Pools.
Now here’s where I place my mid-blog disclaimer….
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Amazing vast scenery, crystal clear water, staircase upon
staircase of waterfalls, bright blue rolling pebbles, surreal remote green
surroundings filled with the freshest of air.
After climbing down a hill and up another to the pools, we
got in the freezing cold water and walked around for a few minutes while
sipping on a nip of Loch Fyne Scotch Whisky. What a day. If you decide to visit
Scotland, I have three “must-sees” I will insist on: Edinburgh, Glen Coe
Scottish Highlands and Isle of Skye/Fairy Pools.
On the way back up came up the hill, we came upon a man
who’d slipped and fallen so we helped him back up to the road. He and his wife
had just gotten there and begun their journey down and up to the pools. I felt
so bad for them because they’d traveled all the way from Aberdeen and had to
turn back. Such a nice lad.
After spending about three hours at the pools, we headed
down the remote country road back thru Isle of Skye. We stopped at a
bite and a pint and then journeyed on, bound for Loch Ness.
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This was a fun part of the road trip with the windows
cracked to allow the cool Scottish wind in and bagpipes playing on the CD we’d
purchased.
Once we pulled into the Loch Ness area, we found our
accommodations for the evening at the Clansman Hotel just past the Loch Ness
hub. We were right across the street from the loch and had a beautiful view
from our humble little balcony. The dining room at the hotel has a wall of
windows that overlook the water and we read it’s the largest loch in the UK. No sign of “Nessie” though.
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Dornoch is an adorable village. Antique buildings, shopping,
the golf club is very nice and the bar was bustling with people from all over. We
grabbed a pint before Jimmy went off to golf and I drove back down the hill (on
the wrong side of the car on the wrong side of the road).
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After a lovely dinner at the hotel, we walked back up to the
Royal Dornoch Golf Club and saw a gorgeous double rainbow over the golf course
(although it was 9:30pm and the light was so low our cameras couldn’t capture
it very well). Then we went over to the Royal Dornoch hotel pub and after
ordering a pint, got some sad news from home that a dear friend and Korean War
veteran had passed away. We toasted Harold Weeden and watched the sun set on
beautiful Scotland and an amazing life.
The next morning we started heading South to make our way
down to The Open. Jordan Spieth is having a great morning (Hook Em). We stopped
off the Highway in a wee village called Davinot at a café called “The Dairy” to
grab a bite and a pint.
Great little spot tucked away off the highway and in a
beautiful setting.
Then when we were very close to our destination, we stumbled
on the Dalwhinnie distillery. THIS was a great spot we saw from the highway with
an impressive campus and the Scotch whisky was delicious. We had a nip and a
bite of chocolate then continued on.
It wasn’t a long journey this day (fortunately) and in no
time we found ourselves at the Fonab Castle. This was by far my favorite stay
in Scotland.
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After a big breakfast and departing Fonab we continued South
for St. Andrews and Kings Barns.
We pulled up to The Cambo House just as the long dusk period
began. This is a very special place. When we pulled down the long drive it felt
like we were miles away from any village. The home itself stands very tall and
vast. Inside it is so reminiscent of Downton Abbey. Once passing thru the
entrance you come to a huge wooden staircase that takes you up to a large long
dining hall set for about 20 people. The fireplace and furniture and even the
place settings were antique and beautiful. Right next to that was an expansive
sitting room complete with furniture and rugs and wall hangings that you know
have been there for over seven decades. Just beyond the sitting room was a
ballroom that they have set up with bar and a television (which doesn’t fit the
rest of the home but was quite useful seeing as how The Open had already
begun).
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After we checked on the golf in the ballroom, we took a
walkabout on the impressive grounds of Cambo House. The family, we came to find
out, owns quite a bit of property so it was a gorgeous walk back through some
wooded & spring area. At the back of the property, we realized we were
neighbors with the Kings Barns golf course and immediately saw some gents with
Longhorn bags (also Speith fans).
With daylight lasting from 4:30am-11:30pm we had plenty of
time to run to St. Andrews (about a 20 minute drive) to explore the buzz of The
Open.
We stopped at a little Italian pizza place and then walked
around for a while.
The Dunvegan Hotel is owned by an Aggie, and in spite of
that is a GREAT spot to check out in St. Andrews. The pub downstairs was
well-stocked, well-staffed, and overall a really great time. Within 20 minutes
of arriving in the standing room only space a Scotsman started a sing-songy
chant that the rest of the pub quickly join in on. “Stand UUUUUUP if you love the golf. Stand
UUUUUUUUP if you love the golf. Stand UUUUUUUP if you love the golf.” You get
it. But we all stood up and sang/chanted along! (and frankly it a tune that you
can’t get out of your head!) It was great atmosphere and we wound up visiting
“The Dunny” every day we were in St. Andrews.
We met some people and had a great time but realized that
the Legend himself, Tom Watson was about to cross the bridge on 18 and jogged
the block over to the course and got there just in time to see him walk up. It
was getting dark outside but the crowd was far from thin. He was proud, a
little emotional, and beaming. It was a great moment in golf history and an
honor to be just yards from him at the time.
The trick to the long days in Scotland is that it’ll be
light outside, you’ll start to realize you’re hungry for dinner and then see
that it’s 10pm. Most of the restaurants in St. Andrews and other smaller
villages close or stop serving at 9:30-10. Yikes. So after an extensive search
we found an Indian food restaurant (the Indian food in Ireland and Scotland is
AMAZING).
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After too many pints, we decided to go on the nightly search
for food and stumbled on an Italian restaurant that was completely packed. We
figured there was no way we’d manage a table but got lucky. The manager of Little Italy was running a well-oiled machine, taking advantage of the increase in
population and getting people in, fed and out as quickly as possible. To add to
the joy of securing a table for two, the food and drink was amazing!
On beautiful sunny Sunday, we headed to the Dunvegan again,
early this time, and met some nice people from Edinburgh that had just come up
for the day via train.
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Paul Dunne, a young Irish amateur was the story of this
round and I couldn’t be happier. A Texan and an Irish lad in the final running
for the Claret jug. While we were at The Dunny, pints were flowing and we spoke
to a lot of people- in particular, some gents that are pros at Dunne’s club in
Eire! Great lads and we all exchanged info and agreed to hang out on the
Emerald Isle in the future.
We decided to dine that evening with our new friends from
Texas and headed out to find a spot (since we once again had forgotten to eat
and that all of the restaurants closed at 10). I’m so glad we did though
because our extensive search led us to Forgan’s. I MUST suggest this spot when
you visit St. Andrews because the atmosphere and décor were great and the food
was even better. Fortunately they had a table by the musicians playing and
acoustic set and although it was packed, the service was first class. Can’t
wait to go back to this great spot!
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We made the hike back to the car and went on to Edinburgh,
one of my favorite cities I’ve been to. This is my third time to Edin (as the
locals call it) and the two times prior were in the winter time when the sun
comes up at 10:30 and sets at 4:30 in the afternoon…quite opposite of this
trip. We booked in at The Inn on the Mile which is right on the Royal Mile
which is right down the street from “the castle”. If you haven’t been to Edin,
“the castle” is one of the most amazing tourist attractions- not only because
it is a GORGEOUS, gothic castle that is quite expansive and impressive- but
also
because it sits atop a large hill and from the castle you can see all of
Edinburgh and the outlying areas and from most spots in town, you can see the
castle. The view is breathtaking and to think of the people and Scots that have
graced the cobblestones in and surrounding this historic structure.
One of the things I’ve always found so enchanting about
Scotland is the history and the people. The stories are incredible and the
people are so proud.
Because this was our third trip to Edin, we have established
some favorites and are fairly familiar with the layout of the city centre so we
walked over to Thistle Street (right behind Princess and George). Although the
first two restaurants we tried were done serving for the evening, we were able
to get the last table at Fishers in the City and had a great meal before heading to
get some sleep.
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Always bittersweet leaving Scotland. No place on Earth like
Texas Home but this is an enchanting destination. I’ll leave you with this
quote by J.K. Rowling, who wrote most of the Harry Potter series from
Edinburgh…
“ "It is one of the most hauntingly beautiful places in the world, the history is fascinating, the men are handsome and the whisky is delicious. But don't eat the macaroni pies."